Thursday 27 August 2009

Landscape on Kimono - part 6

If anyone who visited the exhibition has better photos showing the whole of any of the kimono in this section, I'd be grateful for copies - somehow I didn't take as many photos as I thought I had of this part! So most of the photos in this section are from my archive photos (many low resolution - I'll add detail photos to compensate).

Start from the left above -

Abstract & Modern


Hōmongi
(visiting wear), kinsha (fine crepe) silk, 1950s.


Trees and mountains in a mid century modern style, dyed with yuzen (rice paste resist dye) and highlighted with gold.

The gold stencilling is similar to that on the first furisode karinui in the exhibition (see part 1).


Hōmongi (visiting wear), kinsha (fine crepe) silk, 1950s.


A modern interpretation of a landscape which could be European, dyed with yuzen (rice paste resist dye) and highlighted with gold. Non traditional designs like this are typical of mid twentieth century fashionable kimono.

Gorgeous and in much better condition than the previous houmongi, but still basically unwearable as it is so short. The mountains are dyed in an almost identical style to the first tomesode in the exhibition (see part 1). The random perspective in the fields, the blobs and triangles for trees and the crooked houses appeal to my taste for all things retro.


Nagoya obi (informal obi), handwoven tsuzureori (tapestry) tsumugi (spun) silk, 1950s

An abstract design of mountains. It is informal, but would have been very expensive when new, due to the slow progress of handweaving tsuzureori.




Haori (formal kimono jacket), chirimen (crepe) silk, 1970s


Abstract winter field pattern as a komon (small pattern) design. The landscape is reduced to minimal elements.


Even the lining is beautiful - tiny red plum blossoms, perfect for winter. Unfortunately the outer fabric is quite badly marked. Another one that might inspire a patchwork project.



Nagoya obi (informal obi), silk brocade, 1950s


Trees and hills influenced by Art Deco designs.


Unfortunately this obi is quite badly worn on the edges, and too short to be wearable, but the design is fantastic - an ultra simplified landscape. Would work well as an applique design.



Komon (small pattern) kimono, chirimen (crepe) silk,1990s

All over stencil-dyed pattern of clouds and mountains, in the colourful bingata (Okinawan stencil dyeing) style. The motifs alternate direction, to cope with the kimono’s lack of a shoulder seam, so some are upside down.


Gorgeous fabric design, but it has been arranged on the kimono is a rather arbitrary way. Usually, the fabric is cut to create an offset effect between large motifs on the right and left of the kimono body, but that doesn't quite work here. It may be possible to remake the panels in a more pleasing order (this is one from the remake pile anyway). The fabric is is very good condition, with almost no marks.



Haori (formal kimono jacket), chirimen (crepe) silk, 1970s


All over stencil-dyed pattern of farmhouses, influenced by bingata (Okinawan stencil dyeing) style. The style of motifs is reminiscent of the work of twentieth century printmaker and stencil artist Serizawa.


I would love to create a patchwork fabric based on this jacket...





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