Tuesday, 11 January 2011

Yuza sashiko sorihiki happi

Several months ago, I bought a sashiko sorihiki happi (sled hauling waistcoat) from Ichiroya. I didn't want the parcel getting caught up in the pre Christmas/snow postal chaos here, so I've only just asked them to send it (Ichiroya have been great about hanging onto things for me, so I can actually be home when they arrive too). It will be going into my talk, "Sashiko and Japanese Country Textiles".

It is the third one in my collection and I am especially excited about finding this, because I am certain it comes from Yuza-machi. The strap loops would have had buttons as a closure, like the example in the second photo (from the exhibition in Yuza in July 2006).

See the pattern with the moth/butterfly motif? It is quite unique to Yuza.

The stitching is very even.

The other sorihiki happi in my collection - from Shonai (it could also be from Yuza) -

This has another variation on tsunagi hishi (linked diamonds).

An unusual feature is the fasteners for the front - brass kohaze (tabi hooks)

Fabric ties were sometimes used as another fastening method (photo shows another sorihiki happi from the Yuza 2006 exhibition).

The remaining sorihiki happi is from Sado Island. Unlike the Shonai style, the band doesn't link across the front.

This jacket has been worn much more than the other two, with wear from the sled rope showing clearly on the shoulder.

The patterns are kakinohanazashi (persimmon flower stitch) and sugizashi (cedar stitch). The kakinohanazashi is elegantly elongated - maybe I should call this nagai kakinohanazashi (long persimmon flower stitch)?

The sashiko side panels are nice examples of kakurezashi (hidden sashiko), where the stitching was over-dyed with indigo.

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